Side Back Pleats or Back Darts?

When you visit a custom clothier such as 9tailors,  we will always take your body measurements to ensure we create garments that fit you perfectly. Among the style options we offer, there are a few aspects to how shirts fit your back, according to body type and build. There are two aspects I'll discuss here, both are functional, yet they do completely opposite things.


BACK DARTS: stitched-down folds creased down the back, these slim the shirt down around the waist area to reduce any blousey-ness. Generally, if the shirt fits fine in the front, but remains loose in the back, we add darts. 

Notice the black arrows!

SIDE BACK PLEATS: an open fold in the yoke or shoulder of the shirt to give the fabric more ease and fullness, allowing for more movement. They act like an accordion and provide additional room through the upper back region.

Notice the red arrows!

In the words of 9tailors CEO, Samantha Shih: 


"For construction purposes, you can do one of these options, but not both.  If you were to use both back darts and side back pleats, the shirt would look strange and off in the back."


Again, these two options vary according to different body measurements and what fit style you prefer, whether it is European, American, or a Super Slim fit. The most important thing is for you to feel comfortable in your shirt and not "Hulk" out of it, conversely,  you don't want to look like you're swimming in it either.


Need some new custom shirts for the warmer temperatures? Spring into fashion with 9tailors and email a style consultant at info@9tailors.com and make an appointment today!




REMINDER: THE 9TAILORS STUDIO WILL BE CLOSED THIS SUNDAY, 4/22/12. WE WILL BE AT POPSTART AT 328 NEWBURY STREET FROM 11AM-7PM, COME SAY HELLO!