Fact: Loops, Lockers, and Oxfords

This curious question was asked by one of my clients when designing a shirt.  We have lots of options for the style of the back of the shirt.  One is a box pleat with a loop.  He asked what the purpose was.  Seeing as I have never used one myself I assumed it was decorative but vowed to hunt down the answer.

Here it is: These little loops were called Locker Loops.  The stories vary as to the origin of these loops but many seem to think it was an East Coast addition that grew out of the sailors influence.  These loops make it easier and quicker to hang your shirts.  Especially if you are on a boat and most likely using hooks as opposed to hangers.  

Locker Loop

While we wouldn't recommend hanging your shirts like this as the norm it can be a convenient way to maintain a little order when in a rush or without a hanger.

Another fun bit of information is how school girls used the loops.  Called Fruit Loops the goal was to rip them off the shirts of the boys you found cute.  Of course some prefer quantity over quality and the goal shifted to simply accumulating more than anyone else.

Have any questions regarding your clothing?  Send them our way, we'll do the research for you! Love the loops?  Design yourself a custom dress shirt that has all the bells and whistles you're after. Set up an appointment at info@9tailors.com.

Fashion as History: The Nehru Jacket

The beauty of custom suiting is having the ability to design nearly whatever your imagination can create. Aside from the personally designed suits we have four choices for lapel styles. The classic notched, the formal shawl, the black tie peaked, and the Nehru.

The last option often confuses or amuses. So, I wanted to provide a little more information on the origins and appropriate settings for this non-Western style.

First brought to the limelight during the reign of Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of India. The jacket essentially blends the achkan and Western style suit jacket.

Wearing the Nehru style jacket was a way for politicians to seem progressive without abandoning their traditional dress completely. This endeared them not only to the more conservative crowd but also the more liberal groups through the power of dress.

In the Western world it has been linked to a Mod fashion statement, most notably seen in the 60's, or the contemporary portrayal of the era (Dr. Evil).

Need to make a statement at your next business meeting? Make an appointment with a style consultant at info@9tailors.com.

Fashion as History: All the King's Men are Unbuttoned

Ever wonder why men don't button the bottom button on their suits? Well, get ready for another history lesson, or at least an exploration of legends.

The norm is to have the top button of a suit done while the second, or top and bottom if it is a three button, undone. Where did this begin? As all things sartorial are a mixture of history and myth here is the most popular, and entertaining, of the explanations.

Here are two examples of the norm buttoning techniques from two of the best dressed men in The States.

Rumor has it that King Edward VII was the pioneer of the unbuttoned suit. Perhaps because of the decadent lifestyle led by a King, he grew rather round- to be kind. Round enough to where the buttons on his jacket would pull tight when buttoned. It even got to the point where the bottom button, at the fullest point of his protruding belly, could not be buttoned at all.

His loyal followers, the aristocracy of society, began to emulate the King in order to avoid offense. As this was the upper crust of the community the style trickled through the classes and over time became the accepted norm.

Alternatives to this colorful story may be that it is simply more comfortable, quicker, and flattering to keep the last button undone on a two button jacket, even more so on a three button.

Avoid this:

Getting too large to button your jacket all the way? Simply want a more flattering suit? Go ahead and email us for an appointment with a style consultant today at info@9tailors.com.