Floral Bow Ties and Floral Pocket Squares, Oh My!

The days are finally feeling warmer and the notion of Spring being around the corner is more of a reality than a fantasy. 

Transitioning your winter wardrobe to a spring wardrobe can be daunting for some, especially for those who don't have an extensive one. A simple way to start is with accessories, pocket squares and bow ties. Bow ties are more playful and evokes a lighter spirit than neck ties do. Neck ties can weigh an outfit down because it automatically draws attention downward. Bow ties draw attention upwards to your sparkling smile, ready and waiting to charm. 

Splashes of color and/or pattern brings darker winter solid colors to life without staying in dark colors or jumping head first into brighter colors before the weather is right. Start with the classics before you venture to bolder colors and patterns. Florals will always in fashion during the warmer seasons, it's how you wear it that will keep you in vogue. 

Our studio is getting ready for Spring with the help of new furniture and our little garden is blossoming...

9tailors Spring Floral Bow Ties & Pocket Squares

If you're not quite ready to experiment with bow ties, pocket squares are a safe bet. They are beautifully understated and changes the mood of your suit in an instant. 

Interested in trying on one of our new floral bow ties or pocket squares with your suit? Want help transitioning into spring? Need a lighter suit for warmer days coming? Contact a style consultant at info@9tailors.com 

Meet Chris: Creative client and fashion enthusaist

Meet Chris. President of Dressed By Christopher Cuozzo, he is one of our most active and creative clients. Perhaps, because he lives and breathes mens' fashion. Check out our interview below.

Occupation:

Founder of Dressed By Christopher Cuozzo- clothing etailer

Hometown:

Born and raised in Woburn, MA

Current residence:

Woburn

Age:

29.

What made you decide to go into your current field?

As far back as I can remember, I’ve always been into menswear. I’d save my allowance, along with some help from my parents and a great aunt, and would make trips to DeeJay’s and Scribbles at the Burlington Mall.

I wasn’t eyeing fashion as a career. I graduated from Merrimack College with a degree in political science and thought about going to law school. After taking the LSAT I quickly realized I don’t like to read anything that isn’t men’s fashion related. So law school wasn’t going to work. Though I still fantasize about being a sports agent.

Why choose custom?

FIT.

Especially when it comes to suiting – custom is the only way to go. Custom is all about fit. The biggest most important word in menswear is that three letter F word – FIT. This is where so many guys go wrong. You’re not rowing a boat in your suit, so it’s okay to have it not fit like a windbreaker. Your pant length should not have a full break nor should the crotch go halfway down your thigh, your jacket sleeve should not even come close to hitting your knuckles, your jacket sleeves should not be able to accommodate Hulk Hogan’s biceps if you’re built like Michael Phelps, there’s no need for a man’s suit jacket to allow room for a pregnancy – men can’t get pregnant.

Custom can separate you from the herd. About a year and a half ago I had 9tailors make me a custom short sleeve French cuff shirt. To this day, I’ve never seen anyone else wear one, yet I receive tons of compliments when I wear it.

What would be your style advice to other men?

Confidence. If you don’t have it, get it. You can have all the clothes in the world but if you’re not confident and comfortable then you won’t wear them correctly.

Fit is just as important as confidence. See my answer above on how I feel about that.

Less is more. It’s not about owning 25 dress shirts that sort of fit. It’s about owning the few right timeless pieces or staples, which fit perfectly. Good will is your friend – donate.

It’s about taking it to that next level. Remain from getting bored with your style by throwing a pair of bright blue dress shoe laces on your dark brown wingtips, for example.

Details, details, details. It’s what gets you noticed in all the right ways. On a recent flight to Vegas I was heavily complimented by the flight attendants on my pocket square and again by strangers at the roulette table. Something as simple as a $20 pocket square can make the difference between looking awesome and looking just okay.

Color. Do not fear color. Black is for funerals and formal events. So many guys reach for blues, whites, and black because that’s what’s safe. I’m not saying that guys need to wear fuscia colored shirts, start off with muted pinks to ease yourself into new colors.

Patterns. There’s more to fabric than just solids. Consider a pinstripe suit, or a paisley pocket square, or a bold silk repp tie, or a gingham dress shirt. Don’t be afraid to go pattern on pattern. Rules were made to be broken.

Shoes - so very important. If you can only afford one pair of dress shoes, that is perfectly fine. Invest in a nice dark brown or tan leather pair of lace up dress shoes, I like Grenson shoes. Spend the extra money and get them with a re-craftable leather sole, this way they will last for a very long time with the proper care.

Suit up, and not just on special occasions. If you can only buy one suit, make it a solid medium grey 3 piece suit. Grey can be worn with tan, dark brown, or black leather shoes. White shirts, pink shirts, blue shirts, and purple shirts all go nicely with grey. Grey compliments any skin tone. Just remember, fit reigns supreme. Without the proper fit, it’s all for not.

What is your favorite piece from 9tailors?

My new 3 piece tweed suit. Inspired by the September 2011 issue of GQ.

How do your wear your 9tailors tweed suit?

The versatile options of a 3 piece tweed suit are plentiful. There are 7, I repeat, SEVEN ways to wear it:

1. Pants with a sweater.
2. Pants with a shirt, tie, and vest only.
3. Jeans with a shirt and vest.
4. Pants with a shirt, tie, and jacket.
5. Jacket with shirt and jeans.
6. Jeans, shirt, tie, vest, and jacket.
7. Pants, shirt, tie, vest, and jacket.

Need help building your perfect 3 piece tweed suit? Contact us at info@9tailors.com.

Black Tie: A Primer

Despite systematic assaults by era, the Classic Black Tie ensemble has remained the gold standard for formal events. The lines created emphasize the masculinity, height, and strength of those who wear it. While details may be tweaked for a more contemporary look, the foundation is unchanged by fads such as ruffled shirts and aggressive colors.

Because of the strong roots of tradition I wanted to provide a quick tutorial on Tuxedos. More detailed information can be found here, from the Black Tie Guide.

The main components of a tuxedo include a jacket with satin accents, slacks with satin accents, a tuxedo shirt, and a waist covering. The waist covering can be either a cummerbund or a vest.

The jacket is set apart from a regular suit jacket with 3 components. The lapel shape is different from a regular business suit and come in two forms: peaked and shawl. Not only is the cut of the lapel different from a business suit but it is also done in satin to signify the added formality. The buttons and the besoms are also done in satin. Last, the jacket is traditionally one button, rather than the popular business style of two.

The slacks are fitted the same way as regular suit pants with the a satin stripe down the side of the pant. Traditionally, men wear a waist covering with a tuxedo, although in recent years many men leave out the vest or cummerbund in favor of belts. A good compromise for more conservative settings is wearing suspenders without a waist covering.

The shirt should also be crisp white. The original purpose of the tuxedo bib on the shirt is to achieve a bright, just bleached type of white and allow gentlemen to wear it without an undershirt.

If you have not reached a point in your life where you feel you need a tuxedo shirt aim for one with french cuffs. This will be the extra detail that makes your look complete for a special event.

Check out our model, and client, Bryan in his midnight blue tuxedo. He has opted for a more contemporary look. The belt and tie make his look on the more casual side of formal. This is great for a more relaxed black tie.

Need a tuxedo for the holidays? Check out our deal here. Set up an appointment for your holiday tuxedo by emailing info@9tailors.com!

Seeing Double- Fall 2011 Trends

While women's fashion is volatile and swiftly changing, the fashion moguls of men's wear tend to employ more subtle changes. Last season we saw a spike in three-piece suits. This season we're seeing double- double breasted that is. Small changes to the classic suit make for bold statements in the world of suits. Here are a few examples off the runway.

The model to the left is wearing a Dolce & Gabanna while the model to the right is wearing DKNY.

The key to wearing a suit that is slightly daring is impeccable fit. If it hugs the body in the right places while emphasizing a masculine physique you will look like a master of style rather than a victim of fashion. Another component is color. The suits that step out from the current norm should be in subtle hues to let their shape come through.

Proportions are also key when concerning double breasted jackets. Carefully look at the amount of shirt showing, the "V" of the jacket can be altered depending on your preferences and figure. The two Gucci suits above have a deeper "V" and would flatter a shorter man.

Peaked lapels are also very attractive in a double breasted jacket, or coat, as they accentuate the shoulders. Since there is more fabric over one's midsection the peaked lapels draw the eye out to prevent a bulky look.

Ready to design a cutting edge suit for the season? Email a style consultant for an appointment at info@9tailors.com.

Emmys 2011: The good, the bad, and the ugly

Another award show has come to an end. It left some lasting impressions, good and bad. Here are the successes and casualties of the night.

Good.

Hamm may not have won any awards for his acting but we give him the vote for best dressed of the evening. His Tom Ford double breasted shawl collar tuxedo he draws attention to all the right places. The proportions are great and accentuate his masculine silhouette.

Chris Colfer also looks great in a tailored suit by Dior Homme and slightly unkempt skinny tie which adds to his appeal and emphasizes his youth.

Hands down the best group of the night. Not only did the cast of Modern Family sweep the awards ceremony with 5 big wins, but they were the best dressed group of the night. The younger members appropriately dressed their age while the senior members of the group were the picture of polished.

Bad.

Shawl collars are great, when done right. But, thin and leather? The only saving grace here is the fit. Please reconsider your attempt to be trendy the next time you don a tuxedo. Jon Cryer could use some help next year, just ask Jon Hamm how it's done.

Ugly.

Please Sir, button up, or button down the right way. Did you forget to fasten the top 5 buttons? Or, are you simply trying to emphasize your enormous pectoral muscles that are coincidentally oiled up?

Don't let Seals misfortune become your own. Contact a style consultant today at to set up an appointment.

Fashion as History: All the King's Men are Unbuttoned

Ever wonder why men don't button the bottom button on their suits? Well, get ready for another history lesson, or at least an exploration of legends.

The norm is to have the top button of a suit done while the second, or top and bottom if it is a three button, undone. Where did this begin? As all things sartorial are a mixture of history and myth here is the most popular, and entertaining, of the explanations.

Here are two examples of the norm buttoning techniques from two of the best dressed men in The States.

Rumor has it that King Edward VII was the pioneer of the unbuttoned suit. Perhaps because of the decadent lifestyle led by a King, he grew rather round- to be kind. Round enough to where the buttons on his jacket would pull tight when buttoned. It even got to the point where the bottom button, at the fullest point of his protruding belly, could not be buttoned at all.

His loyal followers, the aristocracy of society, began to emulate the King in order to avoid offense. As this was the upper crust of the community the style trickled through the classes and over time became the accepted norm.

Alternatives to this colorful story may be that it is simply more comfortable, quicker, and flattering to keep the last button undone on a two button jacket, even more so on a three button.

Avoid this:

Getting too large to button your jacket all the way? Simply want a more flattering suit? Go ahead and email us for an appointment with a style consultant today at info@9tailors.com.

tweed, Tweed, TWEED

Well gentlemen, here you have it. Tweeds in every shade and weave. Request after request, we now have what you all seem to be craving. With fall lurking just around the corner here are some chunkier fabrics to usher in that cozy feeling that autumn brings.

Here are a few options that were just introduced to our ever growing collection of suiting fabrics. And, of course, we will have suede options available for elbow patches.

Done in a warmer brown with hints of red this is a unique option for a full suit or blazer.

For a cooler option, try the one above with grey undertones as opposed to the warmer option below.

This options has brown undertones and a chunkier weave without the geometric patterns of a herringbone.

The swatch above has a herringbone pattern with warm brown tones. Great for separates or a full suit if you are feeling extra bold.

Hungry for a piece of tweed? Send us an email at info@9tailors.com to set up an appointment or simply get more information.

9tailors Resident Patriot: Designing Suits for Sergio Brown

Never a dull moment in the 9tailors studio and this weekend was no different. Not only was the studio abuzz with sample sale appointments we also had the pleasure of designing a three piece suit for a newly signed Patriots player. Officially added to the 53 man roster on October 23, 2010, Sergio Brown made some time, despite the grueling training, to come into the studio and design a suit for some upcoming events.

Guided by his personal style consultant, Sergio sifted through hundreds of fabrics before making his decision. After choosing the fabric and style options he was measured to ensure a proper fit.

Stay tuned for the finished product!

Need a style consultant yourself? Email us at info@9tailors.com to set up an appointment.

Defining Fit

When buying a suit, either off the rack or tailored, it is imperative to understand the different forms of fit available that way you are better equipped to describe your requirements. While custom suiting offers more versatility in terms of shape and structure there is still basic terminology that will help you get your preferences across.

At 9tailors we work with our clients to make garments that fit exactly how they imagine their clothing to fit. For some this means a roomier fit, others want it to feel like a second layer of skin. Whatever your preferences, we have a fit to suit you. Now I will break down the three basic choices.

American: This is our roomier option. This is for men that prefer more room between themselves and the suit, upwards of 5 inches. It has more movement room but also looses some of its shape in the process and becomes slightly boxy. It is less tapered in the waist than its European or skinny counterpart and is reminiscent of how a suit would fit if purchased off the rack. The model in the photo below is pictured wearing a European cut suit with a red outline to demonstrate how the suit would fit had it been an American cut. The legs would be wider and the waist of the jacket much less tapered.

European: This is our most popular option. It has roughly 3 to 4 inches of ease between your body and the suit. This fit has a tailor look without becoming restrictive. The legs of the trousers are tapered without being slim and calling up images of skinny jeans. The jacket is trim at the waist without pulling and giving off the image you are wearing your younger brothers clothing. It has been described before as a confident fit. The slight taper lends itself to show off (or create) broader shoulders and a trimmer waist, making those who wear it feel confident.

Skinny Fit: This is usually reserved for the seasoned professionals of custom. It is extremely fitted and close to the body with an ease around 2 inches. The model below, featured in a European fit, is outlined in red to illustrate how a skinny would fit. As apparent in the photo, it is very slim through the legs of the trousers and the body of the jacket is trim against his waist.

These are just templates to allow your style consultant to gather your preferences. The beauty of custom suiting is having the ability to get your suit to fit your body properly. But by understanding the underlying fits offered you are in a better position to make decisions to fit your body and lifestyle.

Email us today, at info@9tailors.com, to set up an appointment with a style consultant who can help design a suit for you with your favorite fit!

Fashion as History: The Tie

Ever wonder why formal dress for men involves a knotted piece of silk hanging from their neck like an expensive noose? Well in an attempt to explain all things sartorial another Google search followed. It seems, as most of mens' traditionally formal pieces, to have originated in the military. This knotted piece of fabric used to adorn the neck was clearly very striking. Since then it has evolved and taken root in the acceptable attire for men. The more detailed version goes something like this...

The modern day tie is a descendant from the cravat. This made its debut around 1630 on the necks of Croatian mercenaries during the Thirty Years' War. Croatian poet Ivan Gundulic is shown below in the first known painting to picture a cravat in 1622. The French admired the look and began to do it themselves. Stiff collars and copious amounts of ruffles were replaced with sleeker, free flowing cravats made of anything from muslin, to fine linen, to lace.

The Cravat

The look made its way to England after Charles II made his way back to the isles after exile and imported the look. It continually evolved as the years went on until we have the tie of today. There are many different types of neck wear now such as the bowtie, the tie, the ascott, the bolo tie (the official necktie of Arizona).

The Ascott

The Bolo Tie

The tie has been criticized as a restrictive element of formal dress that serves no actual purpose and can actually become a safety hazard. But more often than not it is simply worn unquestioningly. Some companies have abolished formal attire in the workplace and the result has been something of a never ending casual Friday where employees have been emboldened to wear flip flops and Hawaiian shirts to work. Some companies, such as IKEA, have actually abolished the use of neckties for their workers.

What are your thoughts on the use of ties? An antiquated formality? An addition that serves to improve the work of those who wear it? A ridiculous tradition that serves no purpose in today's offices? Let us know what you wear to work.

Have a killer tie? Bring it in so we can construct the perfect shirt to show it off. Hate ties? Make an appointment and we can create a shirt so exciting it doesn't need anything extra. Email us at info@9tailors.com to make an appointment or learn more about what we do!

Espys

Last week sports gods and goddesses came out for the night to celebrate their achievements in the athletic world and to show off their fashion savvy (or lack thereof) outside the stadium. Here are some top picks from the night.


Blake Griffin is easily sporting the best look of the night. His light grey three piece suit is perfectly paired with a patterned tie picking up the blue tones in his jacket and a tie bar to add some extra interest.

Well doesn't he clean up nicely, kinda. Tim Thomas of the Bruins managed to keep a slightly unkempt look while at the same time looking as polished as we have ever seen him. Blue is a great color for him and the monochromatic palate is understated enough to make him feel comfortable in that suit.


For a bowtie that really pops use contrasting colors like Tyson Chandler of the Mavericks. The large black bowtie against the white shirt and cream tuxedo jacket really make a statement.


This one needs no explanation. Brian Wilson of the Giants has very specific taste.

If you need some formal attire don't hesitate to let us know. We won't steer you towards Wilson's style, unless that's what you're after. Email us at info@9tailors.com to set up an appointment with a style consultant who can help you find your look.


Photos from ESPN

Contrasting like a Pro: Must Run in the Family!

A few weeks ago a shirt was featured on the blog for its great choice in contrasting fabrics. This last week another batch of shirts came in and we noticed it's a family trait. Here are two more shirts designed by the same bloodline that make the cut for beautifully contrasted shirts!


This father son combo has mastered the subtle differences that make a classic dress shirt exclusively your own. The navy buttons only on the cuffs keep the shirt from becoming too loud while giving it a boost of personality. The button down collar keeps it casual and the contrasting fabric makes it fun.


This shirt is so sleek it could be worn to a variety of events. The grey contrasting fabric is understated enough to fit into slightly more formal events.

Email us if you have an idea of your own or even want to replicate the shirts above! info@9tailors.com for more info or to book an appointment.

In the Know: The Custom Process

With all the style tips and ideas coming your way we thought it would be important to let everyone know, who hasn't worked with us before, how the Design It Yourself process works. Sam, the founder and CEO, like to refer to our work as, "build a bear for custom clothing." Essentially we help our clients, men and women, sift through all the options to find exactly what they are looking for based on the events they plan on wearing their new garments to. So, let me walk you through the process.

1. The Meeting- As a first time client we like to get to know you. Asking questions about your work culture and lifestyle you live is crucial to helping us help you. By finding out what you wear to work, the fundraising events you attend, the number of weddings you frequent and, the types of events you participate in gives your style consultant a better idea of what you are looking for.

2. Choosing the fabric- After the initial meeting you and your style consultant will begin looking for the desired fabric. We have somewhere in the neighborhood of 1,000 swatches of suit material and nearly 1,200 shirting fabrics to sift through. Your style consultant will make it a manageable process by searching for specific styles to match your preferences and fit your lifestyle.


3. Style Components- Shirts: Now that you have chosen the fabric that compliments you, you will choose your collar, cuffs, placket, back style, and buttons. If you wear a tie your style consultant will help you choose a collar that will not only fit the type of knot you tie but also complement your face shape. If you are planning to use it as a casual shirt your style consultant will show you some options, such as the roll tab or button down collar, that are appropriate for the occasions you plan to wear the shirt to.

4. Measurements: To ensure a proper fit we take, at minimum, 14 measurements for shirts and 24 for suits. Another thing to consider is bringing in a suit or shirt that you really like so we have a better idea of how you prefer your clothing to fit.
For suits the wait is somewhere between 3-4 weeks. It is slightly longer for shirts taking 4-5 weeks. If you have ordered more than one shirt and it is your first time working with 9tailors we will only submit one to start with. That way we can ensure we have your measurements and fit preferences perfect before making more.


5. First fitting- After your items come in we will ask you to schedule a fitting. Now we are open 7 days a week to make it even easier to find time to come in. The fittings last for no longer than 30 minutes. You will come into the studio and try on your garments and your style consultant will walk you through each component of the suit or shirt and check on the fit. This way you can be confident in the fit of your new clothing.
For suits first round alterations are common. These are done locally and will typically take about a week to be completed. At that point you can come back to the studio for a second fitting.

6. Second fitting- After all required and requested alterations have been completed on the suit or shirt you can come back for a second fitting to confirm the fit. If you are satisfied with the fit you will be able to take it home and begin wearing it! If not, we would be more than happy to alter the item again or reorder it to your specifications. With a 100% satisfaction guarantee the risk is eliminated.

7. Take it home- After you take it home you have 30 days to test drive it. Go ahead and wash your shirts, we suggest you launder rather than dry clean them to prevent unnecessary wear and tear. Get the suit pressed and wear it out. This is the best way to really decide if something fits you properly. Go dancing, go to those client meetings, go traveling, that way you can really decide if the fit you chose fits your lifestyle and comfort preferences. If you find there is something you want to change feel free to bring it back to the studio and we will make any necessary changes, all alterations within that 30 day period are included.


8. Repeat steps 1-7. Now that you know the process don't be shy about designing all your shirts yourself. Get creative!

Contact a style consultant today at info@9tailors.com to begin the DIY process!

Try This: Beyond Bold

The beauty of custom is having the ability to create nearly anything you can think of. If your creativity knows no bounds, neither will your suit. One of our clients had the notion to create a suit so bold it could, literally, blind people with its outlandish appearance. This is not for the faint of heart. It takes a special type of person to pull off a suit of this caliber. Its shiny exterior coupled with a lavender lined interior creates a one of a kind suit.





Please, gentlemen, get yourself a pocket square. Matching is fine if you prefer the continuity of a single color.


It comes down to the tiniest details with this one. Rather than the standard four sleeve buttons he opted for the high end, sophisticated look pushed by Gucci. Five sleeve buttons with the last left undone proudly announces another level of luxury.

The welted edge and lining reinforce the uninhibited nature of this beast. Let a style consultant at 9tailors know if you have an idea so preposterous it must be specially made for you.

But remember, one thing that is crucial when creating a suit like this is fit. A tailored fit will prevent the suit from looking more like a joke than something pushing the envelope.

Not to scare the rest of the suits away, we still churn out a navy suit now and then. Let us know what you're after at info@9tailors.com

Top 5: Fathers Day Gifts

It's just about here- That special day for dads everywhere. Now you have to go about picking something for him that doesn't suck, something he will use, and actually like if you are lucky. Men, in general, are difficult to buy for since they don't make their wants loud and clear. So here are some gift ideas for the fathers in your life. And keep in mind as a general rule: if you are older than your shoe size finger-paintings and macaroni adorned picture frames aren't going to cut it.

1. Give the gift of style. Lots of men hate shopping, so do it for him. Or better yet, send him to us so we can do it for him. Help him ditch the Hawaiian shirts in favor of some smarter choices. Buy 3 shirts get one free! Stock up so he doesn't have to worry about shirts for the next few years.

2. Beer. Forget the Bud Light, this beer of the month club will send a 12 pack of 4 different types of beer straight to his house. Collected from award winning microbreweries around the country it's the gift that keeps on giving.

3. Has enough shirts and beer to last a lifetime? Try an adrenaline rush. Get him a ride along in a stock car. Guaranteed to get his heart pounding in one of these beasts roaring around the racetrack at 150 MPH. If hes even more adventurous there are options to actually drive the cars as well.

4. Likes it hot? How about a personalized gallon jug of Tabasco?

5. Knowledge, any kind. Get him a lesson for whatever he's into: golf, surfing, painting, photography, kite-boarding. The possibilities are endless.