Trend Watch: Double Breasted Suits

Double breasted jackets are thought of to be dated but really, they're a classic. They were introduced in the 20's and have faded out and back in style over the years. The only thing that really changes about them is the fit. The 1920's was all about the American style suits with excess fabric and less form fitting, even the late 80's favored looser clothes. 

source: canadianbusiness.com/Getty images

Now, it's all about having a fitted suit that tapers to your body and really shows your sleek silhouette that men are working so hard to get now. It's not just the women who have something to show off, everyone loves a man in a tapered suit that shows off his physique while looking incredibly classy. A true gentleman. 

source: styleschool.co.uk 

How to Wear a Double Breasted Suit

• Double breasted suits are traditionally paired with a peaked lapel. Notched lapels are acceptable pair with to give a more casual appearance. However, a peaked lapel will visually balance out the suit by drawing the focus towards the shoulders. A peaked lapel helps make the shoulders look slightly broader and can give the wearer the appearance of having an athletic body shape. 
• If there is an inner hidden button, always button it. If just the outer button is buttoned, the suit will not be pulled across the body appropriately. The suit will look saggy and gather underneath, giving the wearer a bulge across their torso. This is the opposite affect a double breasted suit is supposed to have. Because there is more than one button to fasten across the torso, it pulls the fabric tighter around the body, giving it a smoother and slimmer appearance. This is the perfect suit for someone who wants a slimmer European fit. 
• Leave the suit buttoned until you take it off or sit down. The jacket must be unbuttoned when the wearer is sitting and must be re-buttoned when the gentleman gets up. 
• The general rule is to leave the last button unbuttoned but some rules are meant to be broken. Ryan Gosling has buttoned his last button in the top picture, despite his hands covering it, as does Prince Charles on a regular basis. 
• Double breasted Vests - don't wear belts, wear suspenders. Belts will make the vest look bulky at the bottom. Wearing a double breasted vest with a single breasted jacket is acceptable. 

Actual Client: Dana Quigley in his proposal suit (she said yes!), wearing a double breasted vest under a single breasted jacket with velvet trim. 

Interested in a double breasted suit or vest, contact a style consultant at info@9tailors.com 

Meet Dua - Singer Extraordinaire

Meet Dua, an incredibly talented singer and the front man for Bad Rabbits. We met Dua awhile back and wanted to capture his individual style, while also playing up his fun side. We ultimately settled on a double breasted jacket in a gray and purple check, then accented the pockets and lapel trim in black, accompanied with black buttons, black pants, and a light grey shirt with black buttons. The sheer joy he expressed upon trying on the jacket for the first time was priceless. Once he put the entire outfit on, we were floored. Paired with his thick black-rimmed glasses, Dua looked the epitome of geek chic. 

Age: 31

Hometown: Weymouth, MA

Current residence: Weymouth, MA

Occupation: Singer

How long have you been a 9tailors client? 
"Less than one year."

Why choose custom?

"I choose custom because it makes me feel important."

What/who inspires your style? Why? 

"Yasiin Bey, Don Cheadle, Sly Stone and Kofi Annan."

What is your favorite piece from 9tailors? 

"My jacket."

What would be your style advice to other men in your professional field? 

"Always. Turn. Heads."

Sage advice, Dua. One should approach their closet with this mantra every day!

Peep the pictures of Dua below, provided by our favorite photographer, Channing Johnson.

Do you like the double breasted look or do you prefer a two-button jacket? Email a Style Consultant any of your style ideas at info@9tailors.com.

Meet Graham: Bassist for the Bad Rabbits

Meet Graham, an easygoing fella with a knack for old school classic menswear. While brainstorming his 9tailors garments, the Bad Rabbits bassist knew exactly the look he wanted to achieve. We decided to do a double breasted jacket in a brown herringbone to channel a timeless look with mass appeal. Once we decided on the brown fabric, the rest was history. The first time Graham tried everything on, he looked incredible.  
How long have you been a 9tailors client? 

Age: 31

Hometown: Chappequa, NY

Current residence: New York, NY

Occupation: Musician

"It's really about knowing yourself and what works for you, both physically and in personality. I find it a great challenge to go searching for garments that fit your style."

Why choose custom?

"The attention to detail and the personalized styling makes all the difference. It's the best way to really capture your own unique style."

What/who inspires your style? Why? 

"I normally look to other musicians past and present for style points. I think musicians have their own unique way of dressing that if done right really compliments their music and creates an iconic look that defines them and people recognize them by. Some of my style icons in music are Donny Hathaway, Pharrell Williams, Curtis Mayfield, Miles Davis, Marvin Gaye, Mos Def.

What is your favorite piece from 9tailors? 

The double breasted jacket they made for our performance on Jimmy Kimmel. I had never worn a double breasted jacket before, but 9tailors totally sold me on them. It's a classic look and they nailed it with the pinstripes and cut. It was exactly what I had envisioned.

What would be your style advice to other men in your professional field? 

"Find a look that suits you and go with it. Try and hone in on it and pick garments that really fit your own personal "brand" rather than going for many different styles."

Word up, Graham! Style is an embodiment of personality and signature.

Peruse the pictures below, courtesy of one of Boston's best (and our favorite) photographers, Channing Johnson.

Suit: 9tailors
Shirt: 9tailors
Accessories: Salmagundi
Location: Foundation Room at the House of Blues

Want a double-breasted suit? Email us at info@9tailors.com.

BAD RABBITS: A CLOSER LOOK

In early 2013, we met the Bad Rabbits and discussed a design collaboration with the chart-topping band.  After brainstorming everything from inspiration to color to each gent's individual preference, we set upon a mission of style. True to 9tailors form, we wanted to highlight the personalities of each band member whilst introducing  classic looks and new trends alike. The result? My personal favorite project to date. With one-of-a-kind accessories from our friends at Salmagundi, Bobby From Boston, and KarmaLoop, we conjured up some fly, unique, well-fitted ensembles that screamed originality.

See the pictures from the Bad Rabbits photo shoot with our highly esteemed photographer, Channing Johnson, at the incredible House of Blues' Foundation Room. The entire space, with its hidden nooks and crannies of lush funkiness, was the perfect backdrop to the vibe and theme we intended to capture. After the shoot, BR debuted their 9tailors duds on Jimmy Kimmel Live! All in all, we couldn't have had a better time working with this group and are beyond thrilled with how everything turned out. 

Read on for more information about Bad Rabbits. You can also catch them live on Arsenio Hall, September 24 on CBS.

Left to Right: RP Thompson, Santi Araujo, Fredua Boakye, Sheel Dave, Salim Akram, and Graham Masser

How long have you all been playing together?
"Five years as Bad Rabbits but we've all played together around ten years."

What/Who inspires your sound?
"We could list our influences all day but some of the big ones are Michael Jackson, Deftones, Prince, Earth Wind and Fire, Glassjaw, At the Drive In, Teddy Riley, Rick James, James Fauntleroy, Sly Stone, Pharrell Williams, our band-mates, our friends, family, culture, and peers."

"We also inspire each other. Each of us has a distinct musical palette and we are constantly introducing each other to new music and pushing each other creatively."

What's the most pivotal/favorite moment for Bad Rabbits this year?
"Being on Jimmy Kimmel Live performing "Can't Fool Me" from our American Love album. It was a surreal experience and something we will always remember."

How would you say your style of dress embodies your style of music?
"Our cultural and ethnic backgrounds are totally different so that plays into our eclectic musical style as well as how we dress. We each have very broad and different tastes when it comes to music and depending on the setting, we can dress it up in our 9tailors suits or go with a t-shirt and a pair of chucks. We say stay simple, not too over-the-top, modest, classy, 'in the pocket.'"

What did you like best about working with 9tailors?

"Everyone is super nice, relaxed, creative and willing to partner with like-minded brands, businesses, artists, and athletes. Their attention to detail in being able to hone in each persons taste to create a garment that fit their persona."

What's up next for the Bad Rabbits?
"We just released our album American Love and finished our first headlining tour supporting that. We are going to continue writing music and head over to Europe in 2014."

Hats off to Salmagundi.

Vintage Ties from Bobby from Boston

Vintage suspenders from Bobby from Boston

Huge thank yous and shout outs to Jessen and his crew at Salmagundi, the fellas at Bobby From Boston warehouse, KarmaLoop for providing the shoes, the always lovely Channing Johnson, and the management team behind the Foundation Room.  

Stay tuned to the blog this week for personal profiles of each band member.

• Location: House of Blues Foundation Room
• Hats, orange bow tie, pocket square: Salmagundi
• Vintage ties and suspenders: Bobby from Boston
• Shoes: Karmaloop
• Shirt and Suits: 9tailors

See something you like? Want to create your own shirt, suit, or suit separate? Email a Style Consultant at info@9tailors.com

We Love Bad Rabbits!

As some of you may know, we recently worked with the Boston-bred band, Bad Rabbits, designing some signature suits and shirts for one of our biggest photo shoots yet (practice a little patience—we'll roll out the photos in our Fall/Winter 2013 look book, we promise).

What you might not know is that BR just released their newest album, American Love, brimming with infectious tracks that epitomize the definition of "summer jams".  While us longtime fans, as well as other Boston music writers can attest, this new LP is chock full of soul-infused, rhythmic, and downright funky tunes that are so catchy, we dare you not to bop your head. With beats inspired by a multitude of genres like soul, funk, R&B, rock, among other influences, it's damn sure refreshing to the music lover's ear.

This past April, Bad Rabbits kicked off Spring with a national tour opening for the lyric-spitting Kendrick Lamar and table-turning Steve Aoki. Just a few weeks ago, they opened up Beantown's first official festival Boston Calling. Oh, and did we mention they rocked both the late night shows of Jimmy Kimmel and Craig Ferguson in May? Yeah, that's right...and they killed it.

So, to provide a little preview of this album and the dapper suits we designed for them, check the Bad Rabbits performances on Kimmel below!



Like what you see? So do we.  Stay tuned for more on the Bad Rabbits when we roll out individual profiles of each band member this coming Fall! Inspired to create your one-of-a-kind suit or shirt? Contact a Style Consultant today info@9tailors.com

Spring Trends 2013 for the Everyday Man Part 2

 It's SPRING, don't let the weather fool you! So we are talking Spring trends for men and willing the temperatures to rise and the snow to melt. Many regard runway couture as too outlandish or crazy for the everyday man, whilst seemingly perfect for tall, lanky models strutting down the runway. Obviously, the eccentric and imaginative ensembles that designers dream up are less than practical. However, we can all learn something from the geniuses behind couture. You have to appreciate the value, imagination, and artistic vision behind runway looks. These designers set the trends for what's new, they breathe fresh air into each season, and more importantly, they get us excited about innovation! Fashion is art after all.

Here at 9tailors, our clientele ranges from the Financial District's businessman to the fashion-forward creative executive, from the nervous groom with a specific vision to the woman who wants the perfect menswear-inspired getup for her nuptials. We often look to the hottest trends for inspiration and see how we can combine our expertise, classic aspects of suiting, and your style sense into one cohesive look. In addendum to our post about Spring trends back in January, we wanted to give you more of whatcha been asking for!  Click here to see GQ's Spring Trend Report. We've highlighted those pertinent to our cause below.

SUIT COLORS
Orange? Blue? Brown? Time to emerge from your navy/black/charcoal safety net and expand your horizons to some other hues in the rainbow. Don't be afraid! If you're not feeling a full suit in a brighter, bolder, color, why not try a sports coat? We're having a sale at 20% off blazers all through March!


DOUBLE BREASTED SUITS/JACKETS
Read our thoughts on the double breasted look here. We love it,  really, we do!

Courtesy of danchiz.com

LINEN AND COTTON SUITS
Linen and cotton are wonderful fabrics for Spring.  Again, we recommend you obtain at least a light weight blazer if you're not digging a full suit. Breathable, comfortable for warmer temps. Put off by the wrinkles? Honestly, it's not that bad and somewhat "in" right now. Oh yeah, did I mention our SALE through March?

9tailors Client, Patrick, pictured in linen jacket and cotton pants

PLAIDS AND CHECKS
Most of you only come to us for dress shirts, but we do casual shirts, too! We have prints available in cotton-poly blends and 100% cotton. For Spring, we recommend cotton to help with those who run hot. 


CHALKY HUES

Courtesy of GQ

According to GQ:

"Some people want to label these colors pastels, but they're not. The faded, chalky hues are part of a dusty color trend we've seen all over the market, from denim houses to esteemed Italian brands, that make the boldest hues look washed and well-loved. What's more, the bleached colors look their best when layered together, so mix and match at will."

ACCESSORIES TO CONSIDER:

LOAFERS
You slip 'em on, you slide 'em off. Easy, Peasy, Fo Sheezy. Goes well with shorts, slacks, jeans, or a full suit. We especially dig the tassles for some added panache.

Courtesy of GQ

SMALL PRINT TIES
Don't forget, we have some accessories to purchase here at the studio. Our friend, JegMan, is ahead of the times here, designing small print ties last season!

Keen on the trends? Don't have a clue what you want? Whatever the case, we are here to  help you design garments you can feel comfortable in and look awesome wearing. Email a Style Consultant at info@9tailors.com.

Trend Report: Double Breasted Jackets

Who's into the Double Breasted Jacket? Nearly every designer this season, that's who. Runways have been littered with the old school trend that is nothing but chic. It's not a newfangled idea of design, but with the way people are reinventing this style, it sure looks brand spankin' new. Whether worn casually over khakis, different colored trousers, cords, jeans or as a full suit, you can be sure to see lots and lots of double breasted jackets from now on. Check out our client, Robinson, pictured above wearing a double breasted trench coat! Inspired? Our outerwear begins at $400...just sayin'...

Perhaps it's the current resurgence of 1920's and 1930's styles, but we see so many trends inspired by throwback details (ticket pocket, thin lapels) manifested in new modern ways, it's satisfying to stay current while simultaneously honoring the classics.

In a light brown or a muted checked pattern, the DB looks smart and fashionable without bordering crazy (unless you dare to get loud with your color—ahem, mustard). A slight detail like this on your full suit will help you get out of your standard double button or triple button, or three-piece routine. Suits generally have so much structure and traditional lines, may as well play with the classic and mix it up to constantly improve your style, right?

Bottega Veneta

John Varvatos

Hermes

Giorgio Armani

Gucci

*All images courtesy of Esquire.com

Not sure how to wear this look? Click here for GQ's four ways to rock the double. Our favorite tip: 

"With a DB, it's all about structure and lines, like a car," says Spurr. "Keep the colors minimal so you can see the jacket's silhouette."

Have a hankering to round out your suit collection? Thinking about a sports coat, blazer, trench, full suit, or vest in the double breasted variety? Tell us your ideas—we will try our best to make it happen! Email a Style Consultant at info@9tailors.com to schedule an appointment!

Seeing Double- Fall 2011 Trends

While women's fashion is volatile and swiftly changing, the fashion moguls of men's wear tend to employ more subtle changes. Last season we saw a spike in three-piece suits. This season we're seeing double- double breasted that is. Small changes to the classic suit make for bold statements in the world of suits. Here are a few examples off the runway.

The model to the left is wearing a Dolce & Gabanna while the model to the right is wearing DKNY.

The key to wearing a suit that is slightly daring is impeccable fit. If it hugs the body in the right places while emphasizing a masculine physique you will look like a master of style rather than a victim of fashion. Another component is color. The suits that step out from the current norm should be in subtle hues to let their shape come through.

Proportions are also key when concerning double breasted jackets. Carefully look at the amount of shirt showing, the "V" of the jacket can be altered depending on your preferences and figure. The two Gucci suits above have a deeper "V" and would flatter a shorter man.

Peaked lapels are also very attractive in a double breasted jacket, or coat, as they accentuate the shoulders. Since there is more fabric over one's midsection the peaked lapels draw the eye out to prevent a bulky look.

Ready to design a cutting edge suit for the season? Email a style consultant for an appointment at info@9tailors.com.

How To: Wear an Unconventional Wedding Suit

Supermodel, Kate Moss, and rocker, Jamie Hince of The Kills were wed late last week. While we were loving the model's beautifully beaded gown, we couldn't help notice the awesome suit the groom was wearing! A double-breasted, gray-blue suit can be difficult to wear if you're not a slim guy like Jamie. But, here are some tips to make his look more wearable!

 

1. If you choose to do a unconventional color (like black, charcoal, navy, etc.), keep the hues subdued and subtle. You don't want to look like you're going to an 80s prom.

2. Keep the silhouette slim through the torso and legs. The shoulder pads should be kept to a minimum as to avoid the football player look. While Jamie did a fantastic job of keeping things skinny, I would have had his tailor shorten his shirt sleeves a little bit. Half to quarter inch of sleeve peaking through is fine, but three inches seems a bit much.

3. Wear a ankle boots. Many men ask us what footwear to wear with their skinny pants. The shoe's laces and tongue can add bulk around the ankle. I like ankle boots under skinny boots because it not only has a edgier feel to it, but it also keeps things simple and sleek. Thus, the pant opening can slip easily over the shoe.

4. Mix it up with a striped or patterned shirt. Sure. There's definitely less "thinking" involved when putting together your solid shirt and tie combo. But, a patterned shirt can give your overall look that fun it was missing. Choose a pattern that still complements the colors in your suit. Here, Jamie does it by going with a striped shirt in a darker hue than his suit.

5. Go with a silk scarf tie instead of a regular tie. We like the ones from Hermès, of course. They are light-weight and quirky. It's less precise and crisp than a normal tie for a man. The scarf ties can be worn like a tie or wrapped simply around the neck.

Need help with your wedding suit? E-mail us at weddings@9tailors.com.