Trend Watch: Double Breasted Suits

Double breasted jackets are thought of to be dated but really, they're a classic. They were introduced in the 20's and have faded out and back in style over the years. The only thing that really changes about them is the fit. The 1920's was all about the American style suits with excess fabric and less form fitting, even the late 80's favored looser clothes. 

source: canadianbusiness.com/Getty images

Now, it's all about having a fitted suit that tapers to your body and really shows your sleek silhouette that men are working so hard to get now. It's not just the women who have something to show off, everyone loves a man in a tapered suit that shows off his physique while looking incredibly classy. A true gentleman. 

source: styleschool.co.uk 

How to Wear a Double Breasted Suit

• Double breasted suits are traditionally paired with a peaked lapel. Notched lapels are acceptable pair with to give a more casual appearance. However, a peaked lapel will visually balance out the suit by drawing the focus towards the shoulders. A peaked lapel helps make the shoulders look slightly broader and can give the wearer the appearance of having an athletic body shape. 
• If there is an inner hidden button, always button it. If just the outer button is buttoned, the suit will not be pulled across the body appropriately. The suit will look saggy and gather underneath, giving the wearer a bulge across their torso. This is the opposite affect a double breasted suit is supposed to have. Because there is more than one button to fasten across the torso, it pulls the fabric tighter around the body, giving it a smoother and slimmer appearance. This is the perfect suit for someone who wants a slimmer European fit. 
• Leave the suit buttoned until you take it off or sit down. The jacket must be unbuttoned when the wearer is sitting and must be re-buttoned when the gentleman gets up. 
• The general rule is to leave the last button unbuttoned but some rules are meant to be broken. Ryan Gosling has buttoned his last button in the top picture, despite his hands covering it, as does Prince Charles on a regular basis. 
• Double breasted Vests - don't wear belts, wear suspenders. Belts will make the vest look bulky at the bottom. Wearing a double breasted vest with a single breasted jacket is acceptable. 

Actual Client: Dana Quigley in his proposal suit (she said yes!), wearing a double breasted vest under a single breasted jacket with velvet trim. 

Interested in a double breasted suit or vest, contact a style consultant at info@9tailors.com 

Trend Report: Double Breasted Jackets

Who's into the Double Breasted Jacket? Nearly every designer this season, that's who. Runways have been littered with the old school trend that is nothing but chic. It's not a newfangled idea of design, but with the way people are reinventing this style, it sure looks brand spankin' new. Whether worn casually over khakis, different colored trousers, cords, jeans or as a full suit, you can be sure to see lots and lots of double breasted jackets from now on. Check out our client, Robinson, pictured above wearing a double breasted trench coat! Inspired? Our outerwear begins at $400...just sayin'...

Perhaps it's the current resurgence of 1920's and 1930's styles, but we see so many trends inspired by throwback details (ticket pocket, thin lapels) manifested in new modern ways, it's satisfying to stay current while simultaneously honoring the classics.

In a light brown or a muted checked pattern, the DB looks smart and fashionable without bordering crazy (unless you dare to get loud with your color—ahem, mustard). A slight detail like this on your full suit will help you get out of your standard double button or triple button, or three-piece routine. Suits generally have so much structure and traditional lines, may as well play with the classic and mix it up to constantly improve your style, right?

Bottega Veneta

John Varvatos

Hermes

Giorgio Armani

Gucci

*All images courtesy of Esquire.com

Not sure how to wear this look? Click here for GQ's four ways to rock the double. Our favorite tip: 

"With a DB, it's all about structure and lines, like a car," says Spurr. "Keep the colors minimal so you can see the jacket's silhouette."

Have a hankering to round out your suit collection? Thinking about a sports coat, blazer, trench, full suit, or vest in the double breasted variety? Tell us your ideas—we will try our best to make it happen! Email a Style Consultant at info@9tailors.com to schedule an appointment!