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Thursday, January 9, 2014

Trend Watch: Double Breasted Suits

Double breasted jackets are thought of to be dated but really, they're a classic. They were introduced in the 20's and have faded out and back in style over the years. The only thing that really changes about them is the fit. The 1920's was all about the American style suits with excess fabric and less form fitting, even the late 80's favored looser clothes. 

source: canadianbusiness.com/Getty images
Now, it's all about having a fitted suit that tapers to your body and really shows your sleek silhouette that men are working so hard to get now. It's not just the women who have something to show off, everyone loves a man in a tapered suit that shows off his physique while looking incredibly classy. A true gentleman. 

source: styleschool.co.uk 

How to Wear a Double Breasted Suit
  • Double breasted suits are traditionally paired with a peaked lapel. Notched lapels are acceptable pair with to give a more casual appearance. However, a peaked lapel will visually balance out the suit by drawing the focus towards the shoulders. A peaked lapel helps make the shoulders look slightly broader and can give the wearer the appearance of having an athletic body shape. 
  • If there is an inner hidden button, always button it. If just the outer button is buttoned, the suit will not be pulled across the body appropriately. The suit will look saggy and gather underneath, giving the wearer a bulge across their torso. This is the opposite affect a double breasted suit is supposed to have. Because there is more than one button to fasten across the torso, it pulls the fabric tighter around the body, giving it a smoother and slimmer appearance. This is the perfect suit for someone who wants a slimmer European fit. 
  • Leave the suit buttoned until you take it off or sit down. The jacket must be unbuttoned when the wearer is sitting and must be re-buttoned when the gentleman gets up. 
  • The general rule is to leave the last button unbuttoned but some rules are meant to be broken. Ryan Gosling has buttoned his last button in the top picture, despite his hands covering it, as does Prince Charles on a regular basis. 
  • Double breasted Vests - don't wear belts, wear suspenders. Belts will make the vest look bulky at the bottom. Wearing a double breasted vest with a single breasted jacket is acceptable. 
Actual Client: Dana Quigley in his proposal suit (she said yes!), wearing a double breasted vest under a single breasted jacket with velvet trim. 
Interested in a double breasted suit or vest, contact a style consultant at info@9tailors.com 

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