Trend Watch: Double Breasted Suits

Double breasted jackets are thought of to be dated but really, they're a classic. They were introduced in the 20's and have faded out and back in style over the years. The only thing that really changes about them is the fit. The 1920's was all about the American style suits with excess fabric and less form fitting, even the late 80's favored looser clothes. 

source: canadianbusiness.com/Getty images

Now, it's all about having a fitted suit that tapers to your body and really shows your sleek silhouette that men are working so hard to get now. It's not just the women who have something to show off, everyone loves a man in a tapered suit that shows off his physique while looking incredibly classy. A true gentleman. 

source: styleschool.co.uk 

How to Wear a Double Breasted Suit

• Double breasted suits are traditionally paired with a peaked lapel. Notched lapels are acceptable pair with to give a more casual appearance. However, a peaked lapel will visually balance out the suit by drawing the focus towards the shoulders. A peaked lapel helps make the shoulders look slightly broader and can give the wearer the appearance of having an athletic body shape. 
• If there is an inner hidden button, always button it. If just the outer button is buttoned, the suit will not be pulled across the body appropriately. The suit will look saggy and gather underneath, giving the wearer a bulge across their torso. This is the opposite affect a double breasted suit is supposed to have. Because there is more than one button to fasten across the torso, it pulls the fabric tighter around the body, giving it a smoother and slimmer appearance. This is the perfect suit for someone who wants a slimmer European fit. 
• Leave the suit buttoned until you take it off or sit down. The jacket must be unbuttoned when the wearer is sitting and must be re-buttoned when the gentleman gets up. 
• The general rule is to leave the last button unbuttoned but some rules are meant to be broken. Ryan Gosling has buttoned his last button in the top picture, despite his hands covering it, as does Prince Charles on a regular basis. 
• Double breasted Vests - don't wear belts, wear suspenders. Belts will make the vest look bulky at the bottom. Wearing a double breasted vest with a single breasted jacket is acceptable. 

Actual Client: Dana Quigley in his proposal suit (she said yes!), wearing a double breasted vest under a single breasted jacket with velvet trim. 

Interested in a double breasted suit or vest, contact a style consultant at info@9tailors.com 

Menswear for Women? But, of course!

Pictured: Meghan McQueeney (left), Boo Weintraub (right)

Here at 9tailors, we aim to help our clients create unique, personalized garments that fit any body type. Our Style Consultants take the utmost pride in working with anyone: no matter size, shape, or gender. We thrive on producing well-fitted, tailor-made, exquisite and personalized pieces. What we enjoy  most? Helping our clients discover their inner designer so they may brainstorm outfits that make them feel confident and look fantastic. 

As our business has consistently grown over the past couple years (and continues to expand), we've worked with many women on menswear-inspired suiting, particularly for same-sex weddings. The more couples we work with, the more we have come to learn the difficulties and frustrations of women seeking menswear-inspired suits. Ladies, we hear you! To gain a little more perspective, we asked two of our loyal female clients their thoughts about custom design, the hunt for finding menswear inspired suiting, and what they think of the 9tailors operation. Meghan McQueeney came to us last year for her wedding suit (see her above on the left and her amazing pictures below!) and also referred her good friend, Boo Weintraub, (pictured above on the right) to our services.  

As a woman looking for menswear inspired fashion made for a woman's shape, how would rate the difficulty?Why do you think it so hard to find?
MEGHAN: "It is very difficult to find. I think the biggest problem is that people either: a) don't understand the request; b) think that creating a men's style suit for a female body is drastically different than creating one for a male body (despite the fact that many men have bigger hips and chest than I do); c) they think that women shouldn't be wearing men's styles."

BOO: "It is extremely hard to find a suit that fits properly, especially for people who are on the shorter side."

Tell us a little bit about your experience researching for your ideal suit design.
What problems hindered you the most?
MEGHAN: "The biggest problems are that men's suits off-the-rack are enormous for my frame/body type. Brooks Brothers boys has worked well for me in the past, but the shopping experience can feel embarrassing. The other problem I have faced is from custom made suit sellers who tell me flat out that they don't make women's suits."

BOO: "I am too small to wear men's suits, and boys' suits often use cheesy material or offer little in the way of design."

How did you hear about 9tailors?
MEGHAN: "I heard about 9tailors from a friend who either bought a Groupon or a LivingSocial deal."

BOO: "...from Meghan McQueeney when she went there to buy her wedding suit."

Please describe your experience at 9tailors.
MEGHAN: "Overall, I had a very positive experience. There were a few minor hiccups around shirt style, but other than that, Alex knew to ask what I wanted for every detail. She was very accommodating, friendly, etc. I really felt like she wanted to help me look my best. I will definitely be going back for future suiting/dress shirt needs."

BOO: "Excellent. The staff never batted an eye when I said I wanted a men's suit. Original suit and later tailoring were always very timely."

What are your thoughts on custom design?
MEGHAN: "I love it! For me, in the end, it is only slightly more expensive than buying something off the rack and getting it altered. But the satisfaction is much much higher. It is a more intimate, shared, experience, where you can get what you want.

"I think the biggest takeaway for a custom design clothing company (or any custom design company) is to listen to what your client wants, ask lots of questions, give options, and don't assume you know what they want even for what seem the smallest details."

BOO: "It's great because I get exactly what I want and don't have to settle for features that are too feminine."

What is your advice to women in a similar situation facing this particular predicament?
MEGHAN: "Talk to your friends, know that you are not alone, and don't settle! Try not to get discouraged by a bad experience. There are stores/services out there that will cater to folks looking for a specific style."

BOO: "Go to 9tailors! It is worth the extra expense to get a suit that you will feel entirely comfortable in and the experience of buying a suit from people who do not treat you like you're doing something wrong is priceless."

Thank you for sharing your thoughts with us, Boo and Meghan! See below for more pictures of Meghan's wedding!

Are you a lady looking for a menswear-inspired suit? Come check us out! There is no obligation to purchase at a consultation, but you may come by and see what we have to offer! Email a Style Consultant at info@9tailors.com for more details!

Get Groomed with 9tailors

photo from zimbio.com

Did you get engaged over the holiday season, like the celebrity couples above (Steven Tyler, Matthew  McConaughey or John Legend)? Congratulations!  Like many of these couples, we have no doubt that you have already started thinking about the wedding! The venue? The date? Luckily, for those located in New England, we have really awesome local resources like, Boston Bridal Lounge, Beantown Bride and Style Me Pretty Massachusetts to help you find the right vendors. 

What can the groom do while the bride is researching florists, fine China and planners? The savvy groom can get started on his own outfit, of course! 

Are you eclectic like Steven Tyler? Laid-back like Matthew McConaughey? Or, smooth and sophisticated like John Legend? No matter what your style, we can help you achieve the look that you're going for for your wedding. You don't have to just rent your tuxedo! There are many options. This whole week 9tailors will be featuring a few of our favorite weddings of 2011 to inspire you! 

Photo by Channing Johnson. 

Wedding FAQs:

1) How much is a custom designed suit and/or dress shirt? 
A custom suit starts at $490.50 and a custom dress shirt starts at $79. There are various fabric types and collections, which may increase the final price. There is a 15% discount of wedding parties of 3 or more.

2) How long does the whole process take?
We recommend starting no later than 2 months before the big day. While we can turn suits faster than that, we would prefer 2 months to produce the suit around and make any last minute alterations or adjustments.

3) Should I bring my fiance with me to the appointment?
Yes! We definitely recommend bringing your significant other or a responsible member of the wedding party with you. This is particularly important if your fiance has very specific vision of what she or he wants!

4) What should I bring with me to the appointment?
If you bring a swatch of her dress, bridesmaid dresses or table linen, that all helps us to pair colors to together! We also recommend bringing the shoes or any other accessory that you might be wearing to the wedding as well.

5) I am planning to lose/gain weight before the wedding. Will my suit and dress shirt fit? 
If you are planning to lose or gain weight, we will take your measurements during the first fitting. However, we will likely perform the alterations 1 month before the wedding or until you feel like your weight has stabilized.

Have other questions about dressing your groom this wedding season? Let us know at weddings@9tailors.com.